CRAP ! Tehnici si scule

Pestele cel mai rivnit, cel mai cautat la pescuit. Orice pescar isi doreste o captura cit mai impresionanta. Dintre speciile din apele de ses , crapul inflacareaza imaginatia oricarui pescar. Perioada de baza de pescuit a crapului incepe primavara si pana la terminarea zilelor calde , toamna. insa lunile cele mai bune de pescuit sint lunii iulie si finele lui august. Primavara si toamna, crapul musca cel mai bine intre orele 10 si 12. In timpul verii, cind apa se incalzeste ,situatia se schimba: cele mai bune rezultate se obtin intre orele 5-10 sau 16-20. Crapul poate fi pescuit cel mai bine , in iulie-august, insa la pranz, cand canicula atinge apogeul, el se retrage, muscand extrem de rar .

Crapul simte foarte rapid schimbarile de vreme ,precum si la schimbarile ce intervin in calitatea si componenta apei.De aceea la pescuit de crap trebuie tinut cont de presiunea atmosferica, de directia si intensitatea vantului, temperatura aerului si a apei, cantitatea de precipitatii, tendintele de crestere sau de scadere a apelor, precum si gradul limpezime sau tulburare. Crapul simte cu cateva zile inainte schimbarea frontului atmosferic, devine agitat ,nervos ,inoata stresat, acest lucru devenind o problema pentru un pescuit fructuos.Isi pierde pofta de mancare,prilej cu care crapul isi schimba permanent locurile. Perturbarile atmosferice , marirea sau scaderea brusca a presiunii barice,fac sa fie foartegreu de pescuit . Este agitat si hrana nu-l mai intereseaza. Cu o ora-doua inainte ca frontul atmosferic sa ajunga la locul de pescuit, presiunea barica revine de obicei la normal pentru un scurt interval de timp. Ultimele ore inaintea furtunilor de vara, precum si primele ore dupa acestea, cand ploaia se mai linisteste sau ploua doar marunt, sunt de regula potrivite pentru pescuit la crap. La inceputul unor perioade de revarsare a apelor, crapul poate fi pescuit bine, pofta sa scazand odata cu scaderea nivelului apelor . Temperatura apei este un factor important la o partida de pesuit de crap : cresterea temperaturii in mod pozitiv, iar scaderea in mod negativ. Nadirea prealabila a locului de pescuit. Nadirea locului de pescuit trebuie facuta regulat, penru ca pestele sa se obisnuiasca cu locul. Cele mai utilizate sint : porumb, mamaliga, pasta de boiles, mai rar mazare fiarta. Adaugarea unei cantitati mici de atractanti la care se pun si uleiuri aromate, are rolul sa atraga crapii datorita aromei sale puternice. O asemenea nadire la crap , atragandu-l mereu in acelasi loc, ceea ce mareste considerabil sansele de pescuit.

Crapul este pescuit prin metoda cu pluta si prin cea cu plumbul pe fund. La pescuit cu pluta se foloseste mai ales in ape statatoare, in zonele cu mult papuris si stuf (in Delta, la balti, brate moarte etc.), unde carligul se arunca la distante mici, alese cu multa precizie. Ca unelte sunt necesare: o varga (lunga de 3-3,6, uneori chiar de 4-5 m), mulineta cu frana bine pusa la punct, carlige in nuante inchise (maro sau negru), marimea 1-5, precum si o pluta. Plumbul poate glisa pe fir sau poate fi fixat. Daca fundul apei este acoperit cu mal, marimea plumbului trebuie aleasa cu grija, fiindca plumbul greu se afunda cu fir cu tot in substrat si degeaba vom astepta sa muste crapul. Nu se foloseste fir mai gros de 0,25-0,30 (mai rar), intrucat aceasta grosime sau pescuit chiar exemplare de 4 kg. In locurile unde sunt multe scoici pe fundul apei, portiunea de 1-2 m de la capatul firului se poate roade in timp ce este tras pe acest fund taios, motiv pentru care se confectioneaza o struna de aceeasi lungime, din nailon de 0,30-0,35. Crapul nu inghite la repezeala prada oferita, ci mai intai o cauta, apoi o da afara si iar o inghite, de cateva ori consecutiv. Toata aceasta "operatie" nu dureaza de cele mai multe ori decat cateva secunde, motiv pentru care pescarul sportiv nu are la dispozitie decat o frantura de secunda pentru a simti muscatura crapului si a decide in acelasi timp momentul cel mai propice pentru inteparea carligului. Acest lucru se executa prin inaltarea cu repeziciune a capatului vergii sau prin tragerea brusca a firului tinut intre degete. Crapul nu poate pleca de la fata locului odata ce a inghitit carligul nadit decat daca isi reia pozitia orizontala (in pozitia aplecata, in care se hraneste, acest lucru ar fi mai dificil pentru el). Miscarea prin care pestele isi reia pozitia orizontala este usor detectabila pentru pescarul care urmareste cu atentie miscarea caracteristica a plutei.

In timpul obosirii, crapului agatat nu trebuie sa i se ofere posibilitatea de a se refugia in papuris sau prin vegetatia submersa pentru a nu agata firul de plantele acvatice, in cazul unor zone de apa libere de plante emerse sau submerse se pot derula chiar 50-60 m de fir dupa crapul care incearca sa scape cu carligul intepat in gura, fir ce se recupereaza prin rulare inapoi in timpul obosirii pestelui. Crapul repeta de obicei de cateva ori incercarea de a fugi de la fata locului; pescarul este dator ca, la fiecare asemenea incercare, sa lase firul sa se deruleze dupa peste. La capatul fortelor, in loc sa traga firul uniform, cu aceeasi putere, crapul il smuceste periodic si neregulat, semn ca a sosit clipa cand poate fi tras la suprafata apei, unde va inghiti aer, dupa care se va preda. Crapul se apara cu darzenie timp destul de indelungat, deci pescarul nu se plictiseste deloc in cursul obosirii pestelui. Toate acestea sporesc insa frumusetea, sportivitatea intrecerii intre om si crap. Metoda de pescuit cu plumbul pe fund pare sa fie cea mai interesanta. Se foloseste mai ales in apele curgatoare, precum si in cele statatoare. Metoda se impune insa de la sine daca prezenta crapului a fost detectata la o departare mai mare, deci daca vrem sa aruncam carligul cu momeala la distante mari. Echipamentul corespunde si in acest caz cu cel descris la metoda cu pluta, cu diferenta ca firul trebuie sa aiba o lungime de 100 m, de grosimea 0,25-0,30, iar la capat sa aiba o struna ceva mai groasa. Greutatea plumbului poate fi de 20-30 g sau chiar mai mare. Frana mulinetei trebuie bine reglata, ca sa functioneze ireprosabil. Varga nu se alege prea rigida, ci, dimpotriva, este bine sa fie mai elastica, cu varful sensibil. Corespunzatoare in acest caz sunt vergile lungi de 2-2,3 m. Se folosesc carlige numarul 1-4, cu tija de lungime mijlocie. Ca nada se foloseste in principal bobul de porumb fiert pe jumatate si partial cojit, dar se pot fixa de carlig si boabe laptoase de porumb, boiles, bucati de mamaliga.

Dupa aruncarea unditei, atentia trebuie indreptata asupra firului tinut intre degete, pentru a putea intepa carligul imediat ce a muscat pestele. Carligul se inteapa printr-o miscare suficient de energica, prin care carligul patrunde mai adanc in gura pestelui, in zilele fara vant se monteaza bambina pe fir pentru a vedea momentul muscaturii. Cand crapul musca, pescarul simte imediat tractiunea lui uniforma, in aceste clipe, bambina se ridica, iar pestele se inteapa aproape singur in carlig, luand-o la fuga cu el in gura. Ca si in cazul altor specii de pesti, este bine ca undita sa fie cat mai sensibila, ceea ce sporeste in acelasi timp nu numai eficienta pescuitului, ci si sportivitatea, frumusetea intrecerii. Lungimea minima admisa la pescuit: 35 cm.

Momeala naturala sau momeala preparata ?

	This article will give a view on man made baits and natural baits, I will put them head to head and see which bait comes out trumps. I will give my view of when you should use which type of bait and why. A man made bait is any bait that has been manufactured, whether specifically as a fishing bait or not. Man made baits include processed meats, dog/cat foods, pellets, pastes and probably the most well known carp bait-boilies. Baits manufactured for fishing are designed to for fill all the dietary needs of carp but some of the cheaper ones and baits not designed for fish don't. Most ingredients used in carp baits are from the food industry. The dietary needs of a carp are 60% protein, 30% carbohydrates, and 10% fat. It needs to eat the mixture to keep fit and healthy, just like humans really. Each type of manufactured baits has a certain size and shape this makes them easy to present. A man made bait is any bait that has been manufactured, whether specifically as a fishing bait or not. Man made baits include processed meats, dog/cat foods, pellets, pastes and probably the most well known carp bait- boilies. Baits manufactured for fishing are designed to for fill all the dietary needs of carp but some of the cheaper ones and baits not designed for fish don't. Most ingredients used in carp baits are from the food industry. The dietary needs of a carp are 60% protein, 30% carbohydrates, and 10% fat. It needs to eat the mixture to keep fit and healthy, just like humans really. Each type of manufactured baits has a certain size and shape this makes them easy to present. Baits designed for fishing are made so that they last up to 12 hours submerged in water. Some man made baits can be made easily at home, like boilies, this allows the angler to make his own bait to his own specifications. However 90% of anglers don't make their bait, this is because there are so many on the market now that there is little advantage of making your own and they just don't have the time. Man made baits are very convenient for the angler as they need little or no preparation, the fact that they have a long life is very handy, especially for the angler that only goes 'now and then'. There are only a few problems with man made baits. Price is one of the main problems. Because of the convenience of man made baits the prices are usually very high usually around £10 per kg of boilies. Carp seem to wise up to man made baits a lot quicker than natural baits meaning they can blow fast. Carp who have never seen these baits before can take a while to recognise these as a valuable food source.
	Natural baits fall into two categories - particles and grubs. Particles are the seed/nut/pulse type baits, these include baits like hempseed, tares, corn, maize and nuts. Particles don't satisfy a carp's dietary need and most of the time they only eat them because of their smell, taste and crunch a bit like sweets for a human, we eat them even if they don't fill us up. Another thing about particles is they can be flavoured or coloured this gives the angler a chance to modify their bait. Grubs are maggots, slugs, snails, worms and almost any other bug you can think of. Natural baits are generally cheap to buy as you can get most from animal feed merchants or out of your back garden! There are a few down sides to natural baits. These mainly involve the size of the bait. Putting small baits out at long range requires a spod and the disturbance of this can make the fish very wary. Presenting natural baits can be hard too because the baits that are alive can work their way into slit and weed. The baits that are not alive are still hard to present because they don't have uniform shape or weight and some are too small to hair rig or side hook with a carp hook. A way around this is to glue the bait to cork balls or matchsticks, however this can make the presentation unnatural. Smaller natural baits are more vulnerable to being picked up by nuisance fish. The big natural baits like tiger nuts are hard to present as they don't have a uniform shape or size so you have to keep changing rig to get the presentation right, you also have to drill them so you can hair rig them. Particles need to be prepared this is messy and time consuming but must be done otherwise they are not safe for the fish, as they swell up inside their gut and can lead to the death of the fish. Here is a quick guide to preparing particles: * Nuts - soak in warm water with 2 desert spoons of sugar for 24 hours and then boil for 30mins. * Maize - soak in warm water with 5 desert spoons of sugar for 24 hours then boil until its fluffs up. * Hempseeds - soak in warm water with 3 teaspoons of sugar for 24 hours then boil until it splits. These are based on 1 kg of the particle. During the soaking you can add colour or flavour. Particles will go off after 3 days unless frozen. So when should you use natural baits over man made baits or vice versa and why? It really does depend on a number of things, time of year, natural food in the lake for example swan mussels and blood worms, number of small fish present and what other people are using. Let's take a carp lake of 10 acres 5-7ft deep and very weedy with very few little fish. Now on this kind of lake I would use natural baits like tiger nuts, this is because there will be a lot of natural food in the weed for the carp and they will be used to eating water snails, worms and such like. The fact that there are very few little fish would mean you don't have to worry about them stealing your bait. If we took that lake but it had no weed and lots of little fish. I would use a man made bait like boilies, this is because the little fish wouldn't be able to take them so easily, and the carp wouldn't just be feeding on naturals. However later in the year say around August I would change to naturals as the carp will have wised up to boilies and will ignore them but come winter I would re-introduce them because of the appetite stimulators which should be in any quality bait. However if everyone or most of the other anglers were using one type of bait I would use the opposite, this is because being different pays off and the bigger fish normally get caught on something different to the norm. Summary There are times when you need to switch between natural baits and man made baits but generally there is little between them. The key is to use them at the right time, in the right situation. Many big fish have fallen to both types of bait. You should learn to use both types of bait and how to present them in the best possible way. This will help you catch throughout the year on any water. Tight Lines

ACE DE PESCUIT

	Introduction European fishermen take great pride in choosing the proper hook for their style of fishing. As a result they have a great variety and a number of quality brands available for bank fishing. In the North America, Eagle Claw is the only hook maker who can give us an extensive assortment of quality products. But for the most part the American angler ignores quality and style when selecting hooks. This is strange when you consider that the hook is the only part of your tackle to come in direct contact with the fish. While every American book on fishing stresses the importance of using first quality hooks, most of us can't pass up a bargain. Consider this, would you fish for a trophy with a $2.00 rod when you could use your best graphite? Of course not. So why fish with a 2 cent hook. Yet I find myself reluctant to fish with 20 cent hooks because they cost $20 per hundred. False economy when you think about it. Still, amongst the junk lies some of the best hooks in the world. Cabela's, Bass Pro Shops, and other mail order houses offer Gamakatsu, VMC , Mustad, and Partridge (to name a few). These companies sell hooks made of the finest materials that are well tempered and chemically sharpened. There are plenty of designs for all applications and in the case of Mustad for applications which may not exist. So there is no need to run down to the nearest discount store and buy the cheapest hooks. If you must go there at least buy Eagle Claw hooks. If you use catalogs you will be able to buy a variety of sizes from 32 to 16/0. Interestingly, no one catalog seems to carry every size, but if you purchase from several you will fulfill your needs. The avid bank fisherman will find a use for all of these sizes eventually. The style of hook you will need depends on the system of fishing and the type of fish you are pursuing. Because modern bank fishing emphasizes light line and delicate techniques it pays to get the sharpest and best designed hooks available. Types of Hooks Basically there are two types of hooks, wire and forged. Wire hooks have the advantages of being cheaper to manufacture and bending easily. They are generally made with cone shaped points and have small diameters. All of the cheap hooks are made with wire. Forged hooks are stronger, heavier, and more expensive to make. Forged hooks will break rather than bend and they have sharpened points. Poorly made forged hooks exist but less often than the wire type. Let's look at wire and forged hooks more closely. Both styles are made the same way, the forged hook just starts out with stouter wire. The basic manufacturing process has been around for 175 years and shared much of the technology with needle making. In fact the early English hook makers of Redditch sold hooks as a sideline to their needle business. The difference lies in the attention paid to the forging process and the addition of chemical sharpening. Wire hooks are ideal for panfish, trout and other small fish. They penetrate easily and do little harm . When there is a danger of a snag wire hooks can be used with the knowledge that they will bend and you will not lose tackle. They are inexpensive since they are made with fewer steps than the forged style. They are ideal in situations where the bait has to be presented in as natural a manner as possible, e.g. fishing for trout with maggots. As you develop your ability to fish, you will begin to see more and more applications. In Europe wire hooks are snelled onto leaders which are then attached to the rest of the tackle. This allows for quick changing of sizes and styles of hooks. Match float systems use wire hooks almost exclusively and these hooks are often made with a spade eye to facilitate snelling. This is a specialized and useful technique that should be tried more often in the United States. Forged hooks are made for strength. They are stout compared to wire hooks and are used to catch large and strong fish. This type of fishing does not depend on ultra-delicate presentations since it usually involves sizable or unnatural baits such as cut fish or boilies. They are often combined with hair rigs which depend on the fish not noticing that the hook is there until it is too late. Forged hooks can be very sharp due to a process called chemical sharpening that puts on a consistent point and cannot be duplicated by hand. The hook you use depends on your fishing situation and your philosophy of why the fish will bite. Since there are literally tens of thousands of hook styles to choose from, you should try to be as basic as possible in making your choices. Do you need to make a delicate presentation? Use wire hooks. Are you likely to catch a 12 pound bass? Then a stout forged hook is called for. Will you be catching fish in large numbers and quickly? Then a barbless hook will be useful. What about a 50 pound fish where a delicate presentation from a long distance is needed? Now you need to be creative. The Europeans have solved this problem using a hair rig with a small forged hook. Don't be afraid to go out on a limb with your solutions. The hook you need will probably be there. Most books will give you a treatise on the anatomy of hooks and tell you about such things as Kirbed, reversed, or straight hooks. (This, by the way, means that some hooks are offset and some are not.) I won't bother with such trivia. Barb size is important. Poorly made hooks have big barbs which makes penetration more difficult. (Small or micro barbs are ideal.) There are at least seven types of eyes and three eye positions. There are five point styles, infinite varieties of hook shapes and no manufacturer agrees with any other on size, name, or application. I'm not so sure that all of this makes a lot of difference once you have decided what you want to do when you are fishing. Use common sense and choose from what is available.
	Hooks for Float Systems Float systems require hooks as small as size 32. Baits presented with a float have to mimic the action of the chum used which in most cases are maggots or other smaller baits. Spade end hooks are ideal, hey are light in weight and snelled giving an inline connection, important in a very small hook. In addition they will not roll or yaw when a fish is being played. Lines knotted to eyed hooks will slip when stressed. When a snelled hook is set it will not lever the fish's lips apart. Hooks for Leger Systems Legering, or bottom fishing, requires a different type of hook. With these methods you will expect to catch large fish in an environment strewn with rocks, mud, branches, etc. and you will need hooks which are strong and sharp. The forged hook fits the bill. In contrast to float techniques, legering does not involve delicate presentation of small baits. Most legering is done with large, often unnatural, baits such as liver or boilies. In some cases the hook is left bare and in most the hook point is exposed. Snelled hooks have little advantage here. Choosing Hooks As in all endeavors worth attempting, the little things make the difference. In spite of fairly good quality control, you will always find poorly made hooks in a batch of your favorite brand. The most common problems are open hook eyes and bent wires. If you are very particular you will no doubt find barb size variations and other minor flaws. Remember that you will get what you pay for so it is most economical to buy the best hooks you can afford. Another aspect of hooks is the variety of multiple-hook styles available on the market. Multiple-hooks are usually treble and double hooks used in an assortment of ways. A good selection of these hooks is available in North America and the most common use is with live and dead natural bait presentations. Some of the European double hooks have a smaller hook to place in the bait with the larger hook on the outside. The Marvic double has the barb on the outside of the baitholder hook. The Marvic treble also has a smaller baitholder hook and the angle of the other outside hooks is such that they are free from the bait. All of these hooks can be combined to make various types of rigs as needed. So a hook's a hook, right? Compare a Gamakatsu with one of those imitations that comprise 100 of the items in the one hundred and thirty-one piece expert fishing kit found at K-Mart. You will quickly become a convert to good hooks. Hair Rigs Hair rigs are a special rig used by carp anglers in England (see the chapter on specimen fishing). They are easy to make but they do require some special equipment, namely a #14 crochet hook and small silicone tubing. The crochet hook can be found in any crafts shop (where, incidentally, many fishing tools can be found) and the silicone tubing bought from Class Tackle, Gander Mountain, Bass Pro Shops. The rest you already have. The task of a hair rig is to allow the bait to float free of the hook and to drag the hook into the fish's mouth when he finally accepts it. It works best on finicky fish who will eject the bait as soon as they detect metal. It also works well with live baits such as worms and maggots. A well made hair rig will cause the fish to spit the hook right into his lip more often than not. As you can see from the diagram, the 1 pound test line is attached to the eye of the hook but does not leave the shank until midway due to the piece of silicone tubing holding it. This placement is critical because it allows the point of the hook to remain in the same plane and the same direction (pointing at the fish's lip) whether the fish is sucking in the hook or blowing it out. Any other placement will cause the hook to spin while it is being rejected. Putting a bait on the hair is simple: tie a small loop in the free end of the hair line before tying it to the hook. Take the crochet hook and pierce the bait through. Hook the loop and thread the hair through the bait. Put a small piece of rubber band in the loop and pull it tight against the bait which is now held firmly on the hair. The hooks used should be well made and strong enough to catch the fish. The old maxim of bigger hooks for bigger fish is, at best, a rough guideline. A good hair rig should have as small a hook as needed, usually size eight to four for catfish. Even though I think fish don't reject a hook when they see it, why take chances? There are many variations on the hair rig. Try changing the length of the hair, add more than one bait to the rig either in line on one hair, or use two hairs. Try a floating bait if there is a lot of trash on the bottom. The variations are endless.

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